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--- planning:refurbishment_with_passive_house_components:windows_in_a_step-by-step_retrofit [2016/09/28 13:59] – francis.bosenick@passiv.de
+++ planning:refurbishment_with_passive_house_components:windows_in_a_step-by-step_retrofit [2016/09/28 14:13] (current) – francis.bosenick@passiv.de
@@ Line 43: / Line 43: @@
 ==== 3.2 Proposed solution ====
-[{{:picopen:fig_3_win.png?300 |Figure 3: Front-wall mounting systems are intended as preparatory measures for later installation of windows, which can then be easily installed in the insulation layer. Roller blinds should be replaced as part of the first step.}}]
+[{{:picopen:fig_3_win.png?200 |Figure 3: Front-wall mounting systems are intended as preparatory measures for later installation of windows, which can then be easily installed in the insulation layer. Roller blinds should be replaced as part of the first step.}}]
 Provisions should be made so that the new windows can be installed in the new insulation layer. Front-wall mounting systems can be used for this purpose, such as those from Iso Chemie, Hanno and Illbruck. Another option is self-made hidden parts of the frame made of timber or hard insulation materials (such as CompacFoam, Purenit and similar products/ materials). The Passive House Institute is currently working on a certification scheme for such products.
@@ Line 50: / Line 50: @@
 Covering the casement with insulation is an especially good way of reducing the installation thermal bridge (Figure 4). The reveal insulation can be used to close gaps; at the end where it meets the casement, a hose seal can be used to connect it to the casement. This approach considerably improves the thermal situation (Figure 5); in addition, the old window frame is now optimally protected from the weather, which can increase its service life considerably. This approach is only easy to implement on the side and top connections, however, because rainwater has to drain off the balustrades.
+[{{:picopen:fig_4_win.png?600|Figure 4: Insulation over casements: a) XPS board notched to size; b) PVC profile inserted with hose seal glued on; c) inserted in the reveal; d) interior view; e) exterior view after plastering}}]
+[{{:picopen:fig_5_win.png?600|Figure 5: Window installation situation at the top with reinforced concrete lintel (U-value of the wall: 1.4 W/(m²K), double-glazed IV68 wood frame. Left: initial situation (Ψinstallation = 0.34 W/(mK)). Middle: with insulated wall (U = 0.12 W/(m²K), Ψinstallation = 0.60 W/(mK)). Right: With insulation over casements Ψinstallation = –0.35 W/(mK): The temperatures remain uncritical everywhere around the installation area; condensate and mould are reliably avoided here, but the edge of the glass remains problematic.}}]
-[{{ :picopen:fig_4_win.png?600 |Figure 4: Insulation over casements: a) XPS board notched to size; b) PVC profile inserted with hose seal glued on; c) inserted in the reveal; d) interior view; e) exterior view after plastering}}]
+==== 3.3 Shading/blinds ====
+Here again, the recommendation is to change darkening/shading in the first step for reasons similar to those given in Section 2.3. The roller shutter box can be installed directly on the front-wall mounting system. It is a good idea to have the slats roll to the outside; the guide rails are then farther out and do not have any significant thermal bridge effect. As much insulation as possible should be used between the roller shutter box and the window to reduce the thermal bridge. Alternatively, the composite window solution presented in Section 2.3 can also be used here.
+==== 3.4 Replacing glazing ====
+If the window is in good condition and insulation over the casement is to be used as recommended in Section 3.2 in order to extend the window’s service life, the glazing can be replaced with triple glazing. This option is particularly possible with timbered windows. To reduce weight and avoid unnecessarily putting an additional load on the frame, partly pre-tensioned thin-layered panes should be used. A 3/x/2/x/3 (3 mm of glass outside, 2 mm inside) pane design is recommended. The new glass will then be exactly as heavy as the old. The old glass generally has two panes with a thickness of about 4 mm each; along with 16 mm of space between the two panes, the total is 24 mm. In terms of thermal quality, the optimum for glazing filled with krypton is 8 mm of glass + 2 x 12 mm of space between the panes for a total of 32 mm. Generally, this should be possible if the old window’s pane-holding strip is reduced. Krypton, however, is much more expensive than argon, and also the losses at the glass edges are much lower if the gaps between the window panes are larger. The optimum for argon-filled glazing is 8 mm of glass and 2 gaps of 18 mm between the panes for a total of 44 mm. For such glazing for a standard IV 68 window, the pane-holding strip should be reworked as shown in Figure 6. The airtight connection between the old frame and the new glass should be made by using an adhesive tape that is as diffusion-tight as possible so that condensation does not build up as so often happens with these old windows, thereby preventing the frame from rotting and extending the window’s service life. When the glass is renewed, old sealants can also be replaced if necessary.
+[{{:picopen:fig_6_win.png?600|Figure 6: Old window frame (left) with new triple glazing (right)}}]
+===== 4. References =====
+|[Krick 2015]|Krick, B.: Component Award for Passive House Windows: comfortable, profitable, innovative, and future-proof. In: Feist, W. (editor): Proceedings of the 19th International Passive House Conference 2015 in Leipzig, Passive House Institute, Darmstadt, 2015.|
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